Because of its dark gray-green color, drought tolerance, and high tolerance to foot traffic, Bermuda grass has become the most popular choice for southern lawns. Bermuda grass creeps along the ground and roots where ever a node touches the ground, forming a dense carpet. It also reproduces from roots under the ground. It has a deep root system, and in drought situations the root system can grow quite deep. Most of the root mass lies 24 inches under the surface.

Its blades are a gray-green color and are short, usually 1 to 4 inches long.

Bermuda grass can grow in poor clay soil, however performs best in sandy clay, or soils that will crumble in your hand when squeezed. Irrigation is not necessary but will enhance performance and appearance during periods of summer drought.

Bermuda grass is actually considered a very invasive and competitive weed, however when properly and regularly maintained it is easy to contain. If not edged regularly Bermuda grass will crawl into landscaped beds among shrubs and groundcovers. In this event there is a an herbicide called 'Over-The-Top' that can be safely sprayed around and over plants to kill Bermuda grass. Herbicides such as Roundup and Killzall work quite well to kill it, however one must be careful not to spray these chemicals on the foliage of desired plants or vegetation.

Types of Bermuda Grass

There are three basic types of Bermuda grass:

Common Bermuda Grass is more suited to pastures and should not be used for a residential lawn.

Turf-Type Bermuda Grasses are dense and low-growing varieties that can be planted from seed. 'Sahara', 'Yuma', and 'Panama' are three varieties we have used most recently. The turf-types will form a dense carpet of dark green grass very similiar to some of the hybrid sod types.

Hybrid Bermuda Grass is a low-growing, dense grass that is available only in sod form. The most common variety for residential use being grown and sold by sod farms is 'Tift 419'. It displays a dark gray-green color when fertilized properly and mowed regularly during the peak growing season.

Culture & Planting

Bermudagrass prefers full sun - density is diminished where there is too much shade. Its drought tolerance has made it one of the South's favorites grass types found extensively on residential lawns, golf courses, and sporting fields.

Bermuda grass will go dormant with the first severe drop in temperature in late Fall, however can be overseeded with ryegrass to provide a green lawn in winter.

Bermuda grasses reproduce through seeds and through runners and rhizomes. When planted from seed the seeds germinate at temperatures above 68° F, and begin to grow within 2 weeks. When planting a Bermuda grass lawn from seed it is recommended that a "turf-type" bermuda seed be used.

Cold tolerance is good in Zone 8, though as a reslt from severe winters, spots of "winter-kill" may appear in spring.

Mowing & Aerating

Mowing height varies between 1 to 2 inches in height. Never reduce the height of your lawn by more than one-third when mowing during the active growth season. Removing more than this can cause scalping and may take a while to recover, during which time the grass is more susceptible to stress and further damage.

First mowing of the season should be after danger of hard freezes has passed - normally in mid-March when the soil temperature is around 55 F. Set your mower to a lower than normal setting to remove as much dormant top-growth as possible. Don't mow below 1/2" or you could damage the grass. Bag the clippings the first mowing. The lawn will turn green when soil temperature warms to 60-65 F. Once the lawn has greened, mow at your normal height.

Bermuda grass may be aerated anytime during the growing season except in times of drought. Do not aerate while dormant during winter.

Remember, this is a very aggressive grass and flower beds or other areas will be quickly overrun if not kept in check. Once established it is very difficult to remove by hand due to its extensive root system. Make sure to edge beds, driveway and walkway edges regularly during peak growing season. Edging with a weed eater turned upside down is the easiest way to edge.

Fertilization & Liming

Bermudagrass is a heavy feeder. Begin fertilization in spring just after new green growth has emerged. At this time, fertilize with a slow-release, high nitrogen fertilizer such as 27-4-6. Follow instructions on the package for application and spreading rates. Fertilize again in early to mid-summer with 27-4-6 or 16-4-8. Finally, in fall, apply a good fall feed fertilizer such as 5-10-15 that contains more phosphorus and potassium. These elements will enhance root development over the winter.

Bermudagrass tolerates a wide range in soil reaction, but performs best between pH 6.5 and 8.0. At pH levels below 6.5 limestone should be added according to soil test recommendations. To determine whether or not you need to apply lime to the lawn, test your soil, or have it tested for pH through your local Extension Service. The Extension Service will provide a detailed analysis of the soil samples and give recommendations as to whether, or how much lime need be applied to correct soil pH.

Pests

Bermudagrass does have numerous pest problems, however, which tend to increase with higher levels of management. High nitrogen fertilization rates, close mowing and frequent irrigation tend to increase the susceptibility of bermudagrass to insects and diseases.

Serious insect pests that feed on the foliage of bermudagrass include armyworms, cutworms, sod webworms, white grubs and bermudagrass mites. We rarely experience any problems with these pests in Zone 8 of Georgia. Insect control on bermudagrass should include cultural, biological and chemical methods. Under good management bermudagrass can tolerate low populations of most of these insects. Where insect populations are high enough to cause significant damage, biological and chemical methods may be required. Some species of white grub can be controlled with milky spore disease, a biological control that effectively controls white grub populations. Where these biological controls are not effective, chemicals can be used together with these cultural and biological controls to reduce insect populations to an acceptable level.

Several serious disease organisms occasionally attack bermudagrass turf. Dollar spot, spring dead spot, leaf spot, brownpatch and Pythium are all fungus diseases that attack bermudagrass turf. As in the case of insects, cultural and chemical methods may be required to control disease and nematode problems. Where cultural practices do not adequately control turf diseases, fungicides are available for control. High nitrogen fertilization rates should be avoided during peak periods of disease attacks. Thatch should be controlled through proper mowing and cultivation. And, water should be applied properly to avoid severe drought stress or waterlogged conditions which increases the susceptibility of grass to some diseases.

Never water Bermudagrass in the late evening or at night as this will sponsor the onset of fungus. Always water in the morning hours.

Weeds are also serious pests in bermudagrass turf. Vigorous, healthy turf properly maintained provides the best means of weed control in bermudagrass turf. But, where turf thins due to environmental stress, pest problems or poor management, weeds rapidly invade bermudagrass. Broadleaved weeds including clover, chickweed, dandelion, henbit, dichondra and others can be controlled with the hormone type herbicides such as 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba. Grassy weeds including crabgrass and dallisgrass can be controlled with other chemicals. Annual grasses including crabgrass and annual bluegrass can be controlled with preemergence herbicides. However, all of these herbicides must be used together with good management to effectively reduce weed populations.